I’ve been thinking about that old song “You say tom-ay-to, I say tom-ah-to…” Robert, a voice coach I used to know, liked to tell the story of the female student of his who, unfamiliar with the song and asked to sight read it at an audition sang: “You say tom-ah-to, I say tom-ah-to…” the whole way through, while Robert watched, silently and no doubt about to split, like one that’s been left on the vine too long.
Since that happened at least a decade ago, before the specialist foods craze really took off in British supermarkets (butter from cows that graze only on a particular Alpine knoll? Taste the difference, baby!), it’s safe to say that at that point in her life, our peachy chanteuse had probably never tasted a genuine tom-ay-to – as opposed to its styrofoam British cousin, the tom-ah-to. In fact, she may not have to this day.
They just don’t grow here in this damp, northern climate. Of course, hardly anything sold in the supermarkets here does. British supermarkets are the best in the world (empire-sized irony:) because they bring the world to Britain. It’s just that a few good things in the world refuse to be transported.
The garden tomato is a prime example. I’m talking about those wonderfully deformed, melon-sized, “heirloom” varieties grown under open sunshine and ripened on the vine before the vine is cut; the kind that haven’t been genetically modified to bounce when dropped at 20 feet. The kind that, tragically, even promising specimens bought at Borough Market could not begin to compare to.
I know, I know. I’m hysterical! Obsessed! Tomato mad! Worse still, after eight years on this side of the Atlantic, I barely know which way to pronounce the word. Tam-ay-to! tom-ah-to!… let’s call the whole thing off! (Now I’m scaring me.)